Bok-nal refers to the three hottest days of the year here in Korea: chobok (초복), jungbok (중복) and malbok (말복). I guess you could also refer to them as the “dog days of summer.” A big part of observing these days is seeking out highly nutritious dishes known to help cope with and combat the heat.
In fact, the term i-yeol-chi-yeol (이열치열) plays a big part in bok-nal. It translates to “fighting fire with fire” and is the idea that by eating hot or spicy foods, your body’s temperature will increase, which makes you sweat and eventually cools you down through the body’s natural cooling process. This in turn is meant to help balance your body temperature, restore energy and keep you healthy during the swelteringly humid summers.
It may sound strange, but… it works! And with the first bok-nal, “chobok,” already behind us I’ve been craving a delicious hot bowl of samgyetang (삼계탕).
Chicken Soup for the Soul
Samgyetang is a traditional Korean ginseng chicken soup. It consists of a whole chicken stuffed with garlic, glutinous rice, jujube and ginseng and cooked in a flavorful broth. It’s believed to help refresh the body and renew ones stamina. So naturally, it’s probably one of the most popular dishes to eat during bok-nal.
Tosokchon Samgyetang (토속촌 삼계탕) is one of those spots that have gone viral, has been hyped up by tourists, and is actually worth the hype. Although it’s tucked away in a touristy neighborhood near Gyeongbokgung, a lot of locals eat here.
Obviously, it passes the vibe check. Tosokchon Samgyetang is hidden in a deceptively small-looking traditional Korean hanok. The interior is decked in traditional lacquered wood with beautiful traditional accents and flourishes. They offer table seating, floor seating and even private rooms.
The Black Chicken of Tosokchon
As for the samgyetang, they offer two variations the Tosokchon Samgyetang and the Tosokchon Ogolgye Samgyetang. Both are served with chicken stuffed with ginseng, glutinous rice, pumpkin seeds, black sesame, walnut, pine, native chestnut, medicinal jujube, ginkgo, garlic, sunflower seeds and other special ingredients. As you might imagine, it’s super savory, flavorful and the main reason for being our favorite samgyetang spot. We’ve yet to try another samgyetang restaurant that uses this many ingredients and it really does make a difference.
The main difference between the two dishes is the type of chicken used. The Tosokchon Ogolgye Samgyetang uses a chicken with black meat. It’s my favorite version of the dish and was traditionally only served to the royal family due to its rarity and health properties such as improving blood circulation and increasing stamina. My husband is an OG kind of guy, but you know I’m all about that royal treatment.
Of course each set comes with some side dishes and a small cup of insamju (인삼주) or ginseng liquor. You can drink it before, during, or after the meal. As ginseng does, this drink is meant to strengthen the body’s immune system, restore vitality, alleviate stress and increase blood circulation. As good as all that sounds, it is a bit on the strong side, so we tend to drink it in-between spoonfuls of soup and chicken.
Where is Tosokchon Samgyetang?
Tosokchon Samgyetang is located about 15 minutes from Gyeongbokgung Station, exit 2 on Line 3. It’s the perfect place to grab lunch after walking around Gyeongbokgung Palace which is about 20 minutes away by foot.
- 서울 종로구 자하문로5길 5 토속촌 (Naver Map)
- 5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno District, Seoul (Google Maps)
Or if you’re still hungry, though you shouldn’t be, you can also check out Tongin Market and get some more delicious foods.
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