Hidden down one of the Gyeongbokgung area’s many side alleys is Tongin Market. As one of Seoul’s smaller traditional markets, the narrow alley offers a nice selection of foods, snacks and drinks. If you were planning an itinerary of street food and hotspots, you’d be forgiven for leaving Tongin Market out. But this hidden gem has a secret menu that separates it from other markets and makes it a unique, must-visit for foodies in Seoul.
A Small Market for Big Appetites
As a small market, there are plenty of reasons to visit bigger markets like Gwangjang to the south or Mangwon to the west. But whereas Gwangjang revels in the chaos of its massive marketplace with oversized (and sometimes overpriced) dishes, Tongin has a more unique and personalized dining experience. That’s where the Yeopjeon Doshirak comes in.
We made our way to Tongin Market’s Doshirak Cafe. There we paid 10,000 KRW per person and in exchange received a plastic lunch plate and two bundles of yeopjeon (brass coins) each. The coins are used to purchase small single and half-servings of dishes at the many restaurants in the market. For anyone who’s ever wandered into a market and wanted to try a little of everything, this is the dream.
Like other markets, Tongin offers full servings of tteokbokki, fried tempura, japchae and all the other traditional fare. But, the Yeopjeon Doshirak offers visitors the chance to try a little bit of everything. Which sounds great in theory, and is great in practice.
We walked the length of the market (which isn’t very long) scouting out our choices from coffee to stir-fried tteokbokki and Pikachu-shaped donkatsu. There was so much to choose from, but we wanted to take our time before we got started.
In the end, we ended up with two plates full to the brim with fried zucchini, fried Korean spam, tteokbokki, stir-fried tteokbokki, marinated fried chicken, takoyaki, japchae, rolled eggs, and dumplings. For 20,000 KRW (~17 USD). And there was so much more we wanted to try, but didn’t have the room for.
How It Works
First, you want to head to the Doshirak Cafe. There, you pay 10,000 KRW with cash or card to get your plate and 20 yeopjeon. Each yeopjeon is worth 500 KRW and is exchanged accordingly at the shops in the market. If you have any coins leftover, you can get a cash refund.
There is a map at the Doshirak Cafe with all the shops that participate in the Yeopjeon Doshirak, but the shops also have signs or prices listed in “coin”.
While you can wander about with half-filled plates, we recommend planning your meal ahead. Pick a main dish and then work your way around with filling the smaller slots. There’s tonkatsu, chicken skewers and noodles for mains. Or go with japchae and get a host of side dishes like we did.
Once you’re done assembling your plate, return to the visitors center. There’s seating on the 2nd floor as well as the 3rd floor. The Doshirak Cafe has canned drinks and coffee which can be purchased with coins or normal money.
Where is Tongin Market?
Tongin Market is located near Gyeongbokgung Palace. The easiest way there is to take exit 2 from Gyeongbokgung Station and walk straight for 576 m. The market entrance will be on your right.
- Tongin-dong 10-3 (통인동 10-3)
While the market is open until 9 PM, the Yeopjeon Doshirak is only available from 11 AM to 5 PM (coins sold until 4 PM) on Saturdays and Sundays and 11 AM to 4 PM (coins sold until 3 PM) on Tuesday – Friday. Sadly, the lunch is not available on Mondays.
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